My stint with Basic Mountaineering Course (BMC) in HMI, Darjeeling 2014
On the backdrop of the Kanchenzonga Range the Institute is situated, to be precise the Institute is inside the Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park .We were given strict orders that no one can stroll outside the Institute premise after 6pm.On arrival we are given one glass and a spoon, which we have to return it on the last day & then we were taken to our rooms. The rooms were decent and clean with 8 bunk beds with comfortable mattresses. There are different rooms with 2 or 4 bunk beds. From now on we were responsible for the cleanliness of the room .We met the other candidates who were coming for the course as 16th October evening was the reporting period. That night we were served Dinner, it was nutritious and from now on the same food will be served for the next 25 days. Our first day was basically an early morning P.T .Class starting from 5.30 am followed by breakfast and theory classes. On the first day I had trouble while running, even though as 5km in the plains was nothing for me, but in the altitude it’s very difficult. Apart from that the weather was cold and foggy, but the best part of the P.T. is we have to run all through Chowrasta and there we get the majestic view of the whole Khangchendzonga massif .I would have run every day to see this beauty . Really Darjeeling is the “the Queen of Hills” !. For the whole week this routine was continued with equipment introduction, issue of equipments, medical test, knot classes, theory classes on mountain terms, mountain manners & customs, avalanches, mountain hazards, how to pitch a tent, ice axe & crampon fittings, medical classes on Basic life support (BLS), fitness class, acute mountain sickness (AMS), High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE), High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE), map reading, Himalayas etc. Later on we had practical classes on Rock climbing both natural and artificial (indoor/outdoor). The evening classes were wrapped up with a film a day on HMI Mt. Everest Expedition 2012, Makalu Expedition 2009 and so on. On the 5th day, we were taken for the trek of Tiger Hill or say it a test trek with the rucksack and essentials. It’s altogether a 22km trek where we took around 7 hours.
 |
| Kanchenzonga from the Institute |
 |
| Our Bunker in the Institute |
 |
| Outdoor natural rock climbing . |
 |
| Chimney Climbing |
 |
| Outdoor Artificial Climbing Wall |
From the Tiger hill we can see the sea level as well as the highest point on earth. The 7th day after the P.T.class, were given a day off for shopping of the basics things because our final trek was to begin final trek from Yoksum (West Sikkim). Today was Deepawali and we all celebrated together, praying in front of Goddess Laxmi , exchanging sweets, dancing in the tune of Nepali music, burning crackers and later after the dinner all were busy backpacking & all stressed out on what to take and what not to. Our next big trek was from Yoksum-Bakkhim-Tsokha-Phethang-Dzongri-Dzongri la pass-Bikbari-Chowrikhang Basecamp amidst the midst of Kanchenzonga National Park. From our BMC Batch total 64 students, 7 were not able to make for the trek as they were declared medically unfit for the trek. So the next day we set out for Yoksum, which was a 7 hour journey through the banks of the river Teesta. We halted in Jorethang for lunch and then around evening time we reached Yoksum, which was the first capital of Sikkim as our Course Director says “meeting place of three monks”. This was also the birth place of the Bollywood actor Danny Denzongpa. Our course director was very particular about students who indulge themselves in alcohol or tobacco during the course, otherwise s/he will be dismissed. In Yoksum we met our Quarter Master and boys and girls we given separate place to spend the night. Boys were asked to stay at a hut nearby while we girls stay in already put up tents. We freshen up and headed for dinner and slept as we had our “Big Day” trek to Bakhim tomorrow. The very next morning at 4 am we woke up and I was amazed to see the sky over us. It was full of millions of stars and was so clear and so shimmering. Neither dust nor pollution .In my city I haven’t seen such a sky with millions of twinkling stars. We were literally reading the constellations as we were taught in the Map reading class .It was amazing, one thing to keep in mind that from here itself we have to save your camera batteries from draining and yes our phone doesn’t have network here . After breakfast we headed towards Bakhim, crossing four suspension bridges, filling our bottles for water .We were crossing four valleys, sometimes steep, sometimes downhill & meeting yaks and horses on the way. It was both easy and hard, with load 18kgs for girls in our backpack & 20 to 22kgs for boys. Our aim was to reach Bakkim before it gets dark and we did.
 |
| Diwali celebration before the big Trek |
 |
| Getting ready for the Trek |
Bakhim was at 9000 feet also known as the “House of Bamboo”, there was a forest
rest house in which we had to stay for two night and three days for
acclimatization. The chillness of the water was bearable, while the boys stayed
in downstairs , the girls were lodged in upstairs. The rest house was not in good condition,
it felt like if we give a good kick , it will come down. The stairs leading to
our room was broken and a part of our room was broken too, besides that we had
no electricity and had to use our torch at night. The weather was foggy and
there was story of a lady ghost that lives in the rest house. Boys, Girls and
Instructors were shown different directions to go when natures call come and
for that purpose our Ice-axe comes handy. The next day we were taken for
acclimatization little up from Tsokha, we stayed there for a time being then
headed to our Forest Rest House .We even had a class on hygiene, sanitation &
diet on the mountains. Many important things were taught in these classes,
regarding how to survive in places where oxygen is less, what to eat and what
not to etc. We pass our time by strolling here and there, eating maggi from the
nearby hut, where one plate costs 50 /- , singing songs in the night under the
starry sky. The third day we headed for our next location Dzongri, by passing
Tsokha-Phethang-Deorali and I must say, this was the toughest trek for me. It
was all the way steep. We were just putting one step ahead other, with our
heads down & the heavy load in our back, feeling as if we were yaks and horses.
I was not complaining about going ahead but I just wanted to die. In some spot
I literally thought that if a snow leopard comes and eat me up, I would have never
mind. Finally we reach Dzongri 3950 meter (13,035 feet), after rest we were
taken for acclimatization and for the night we camp there. We had to put on
Feather jacket as the place was very cold. It was my first experience with
snow. We notice snow covered plains on the way. We were so tired by the trek
that we just had our dinner and slept. The water here was very chilly, you can’t
touch it. We struggle while we went to wash our mess tin from the stream water.
The important thing here is how we can keep our foot free from Blisters .So we
open our shoes every day after trek and wipe it and put anti-bacterial powder.
 |
| Base Camp |
From today onwards the toughest classes of
the base camp started. We were made to walk an uphill and while walking through
this steep uphill, we get exhausted easily. It was the route that leads us to
the Rohtang Glacier but, today we were taken there for acclimatization and
class on the surroundings. Then we went down and had class on crampon fitting,
coordination of ice axe & crampon and rappelling. During stomach rappelling
I fell down in a rock. I was not much injured. It felt as if I have chosen this
Mountaineering course to get injured. The next day followed by heavy snowfall
and fighting it, we went for glacier training, which was even harder for me.
The route to Rohtang Glacier was covered with huge big boulders which is very
tough to walk with snow boots on and one has to be very careful while walking
as you can slip anywhere in the ice .But the scene there was like paradise
,everything was white very beautiful .Finally
we reach the glacier and put on the crampons. Walking in the snow with crampons
and ice climbing was very tough. You need much strength in your toe and
obviously shoulders. On the end of every glacier training class we were happy
as we were done for the day but in the same time I enjoyed everything that was
taught in the glacier training. At the end we went down to the base camp where
classes on fixed rope & jumaring
theory classes was given. The next day, thank God we didn’t have any glacier training
but we did Jumar climbing and the end was finally with a theory classes on fixed
rope & glaciers. The next day we went for a visit to Advance Base Camp
(ABC), the trek was good and easy comparatively to the Glacier training. The
advance people went to other site for practice and we had to do rappelling
there from a huge rock. It was very windy, but looking at a huge lake known as Dudh
Pukhuri (Milk Lake) a kind of a holy lake makes your mind calm. But rappelling
through the huge rock at first made me panic inside. But after all, rappelling
is quite easy, just you need courage at the beginning & 100% faith on your
instructors, but while getting down it goes smooth. After that we had tea in
the ABC and had a practical class on self arrest and group arrest, which we
enjoyed a lot. Finally the day came when we had the last of glacier training where
we were taught the most important thing .It was about crevasse rescue , how to
self anchor and how to insert pitons and all . We really had fun during the
drill of crevasse rescue, but this was the most important things to learn as a
mountaineer. How to rescue your mate when s/he has fallen into a crevasse,
about whose depth we have no idea. But the worst was yet to come, I don’t want
to say as worse but it was hard. In the evening we were given nuts, dry fruits,
chocolate and juice as tomorrow was an important day .We would be going for
height gain, to another peak –Rhenok 16,500 feet (5000 meters).
 |
| Our Bunk at the Base Camp |
 |
| Our Medical Unit |
 |
| Advance Base Camp |
Peak Rhenok was a long way, even longer then
Rhotang Glacier, at first we have to cross a lake of big boulders, followed by
some small valley and finally steep uphill and few valleys and finally we reach
the base. I made it in the 7th Rope and we all were tied together
with instructor Indraneel Sir ahead of us and Lakpa Sir behind us .This route
to the peak was the toughest as it was full of snow, but we made it to the top
after chimney climbing .We stayed at the top for 10 to 15 minutes, took some
photographs and finally back to the base & this time we were literally sliding
in the snow. The experience in the top was amazing & we could see the surrounding
mountains like Mt.Frey, Mt.Pandim etc. It feels as if coming to BMC and
completing the Height gain was worth it. I hated walking in the snow as every
time I fall down .The technique was to put the heel first and then the toe. But
it was not happening by me .9 of the girls didn’t made it to the peak .They
stayed down in the base of Rhenok itself. Later we went to our base camp and
saw our Advance seniors had come down from ABC and would be tenting with us in
the Base camp & they will be going down tomorrow. In the evening we were
given classes on suspension, tyroline tracerse etc.
The base camp was a place where there was one
medical unit, small huts of our instructor, a kitchen, a kitchen hall and where
you can see all the mountains surrounding you in a panoramic angle. It was a
paradise minus all the training. We were given two bottles of warm water every day.
But that bottle is only to drink. So we always kept the warm bottles in the
sleeping bag to keep it warm and some use the remaining water to wash their
faces in the early morning. Usually the water that we use to wash our mess tin
is always in the state of freeze, but we use it and after sometimes our fingers
becomes numb. One thing to remember there is no point for a bathe for the period in the base camp. The meal
given in the base camp is fabulous; it’s really commendable that in such
altitude also such nice meal is provided. You should really thank the Sherpa person
who carries cylinders and food items just for us till the base camp. Sometimes
when theory classes are over soon, we spend time in the base camp by playing
Volley ball or football. It’s hard to run around, because you get exhausted
very soon, it’s because of the altitude & less oxygen. Sometimes we just
stroll around and talk or take pictures. Usually here there is no network in
the phone so people get the chance to bond with the mates. Sometimes before
dinner time, people go in the hall and spend time by singing songs, antakshri
etc. There was a chowkidar there who had fireplace and he used to sell Wai Wai
in 50 rupees. After the dinner we were given hot drinks (Horlicks) & we
waited desperately for it .In the evening we get tomato soup. We don’t
complain, in whatever we get. As we don’t have choices here we eat whatever is
given & in altitude, fluids of any kind are very important for the body. The
temperature here is so low as -7 to -11 degree Celsius so it’s important to
keep ourselves warm. Regarding using the so called washroom is a problem .For
the boys it’s not far from there bunk but for the girls, we had to walk another
small mountain to get there .So one of our friends name it Mt. Loo. We have to
save electricity here, solar panels are used here .So we go to bed early.
in the Summit 
Jhasi Rope
Sometimes as I wake up in around 2.00am to go
the washroom, I watch the sky above, it always clear .It was so beautiful, full
of stars and moon and the huge mountain drenched in snow and illuminating
itself. Once I just sat in the rock facing the mountain in the middle of the
night and enjoyed the silence until it was dawn. Usually in the daytime the
weather is cloudy or foggy or snowfall. But in the middle of the night its
always clear .Sometimes I talk with my mates telling them, we were just
strangers arriving from different corners of India and now we were living the
most beautiful “one month” of our life in this beautiful place not meant for
all and being closer than ever. In the mountains, motivation counts,
encouragements counts more. Your mates are your backbones.
The next day, the advance people was to head
back to Darjeeling stopping at Bakhim for the night and then to Yoksum and the
very evening to Darjeeling. From the Basic course, some of the students (slow
walkers) were asked to join them, but they will stay at Yoksum until the other
Basic people come and join them. I nominated myself as I got my special reason.
So we headed the other day with the advance people & other mates that we
left behind, have to clean the base camp for the day. We reach Bakhim the same
day crossing Dzongri la pass and Dzongri. It was not difficult as it was
downhill .But we had to walk cautiously as we got load on our back and taking a
stick while walking is always a good idea. We stayed that night at Bakhim,
rested and in the next morning the advanced headed for Yoksum without breakfast.
We got fresh had breakfast and around 6.30am we started our trek. We reached Yoksum,
but the advance people already headed for Darjeeling. But we had to rest for
the night there .As soon as we reach Yoksum, we kept our rucksack and slept in
the field, taking literally sun bathe. We were so happy to feel the sun there. Somebody brought chips, biscuits, coke etc and
we had it all .We freshen up & had maggi and momo in the nearby stall and
went to see the nearby places. We went to Monastery of 12 monks, where the 12
prayer wheels was the 12 incarnations of Lord Buddha & Karthok Monastery which was closed by then but
we peeped through its windows, ate at Gupta’s Restaurant like we have never
eaten before, headed for our place, pitch our tent and finally after dinner had
a goodnight sleep. The next day we waited for our mates to arrive, they had a
tough trek; they too arrived from Yoksum without having breakfast. We felt sorry
for them. Anyways after breakfast we headed for Darjeeling.
 |
| Soaking in the Sun |
 |
We unpacked, bathe the next day, had rock
climbing competition followed by a written test & an individual interview
with the Principal .The next day we had Cross Country Run competition then
outing & rehearsal for tomorrows Graduating ceremony. Finally the day came
when we were graduated followed by a small party .It was sad to see finally the
course end & we definitely made so many good friends and memories. Many of
them went to their homes but some of us had to stay as our train was tomorrow.
That’s how my stint with Basic Mountaineering
Course ended. Although it was a tough one, but we learned so many thing .But I
must say, I had the Best 26 days of my life. At night in the base camp some of
us (the private candidate) used to discuss that we won’t come for Advance
Course even if we get an “A” grade, but now the perception was changed .I was
in love with the mountains & whenever I get a chance I will grab it wholeheartedly!
 |
| The Trek Route |
 |
| my sun kissed nose |
 |
| Our Graduation Ceremony |
MORAMEE
DAS
16th Aug 2015
*************************************************
Comments
Post a Comment